The city of Waikīkī remains as Hawaiʻi’s number one visitor destination and is the major reason why the city of Honolulu is one of the top ten destinations in the United States. The meaning of Waikīkī in the Hawaiian language means spouting water. It has been said to be named for swamps later drained to form the Ala Wai Canal, traditional fishponds, duckponds, and residences owned by native Hawaiian kings and queens. However, the neighborhood of Waikīkī extends from the Ala Wai Canal to Diamond Head, which is Lēʻahi in the Hawaiian language. However, according to one of my other sources, “Waikīkī Beach originally was a barrier beach between Ala Wai-Mōʻiliʻili duckponds and swamps and the ocean” (Wiegel). In addition to that, Waikīkī is one of the larger ahupuaʻa that is located on the island of Oʻahu and was once the site of one of three favorite residences of the powerful chief of Oahu, Kākuhihewa.
An ahupuaʻa is part of the indigenous land division system in Hawaiʻi that extends from the uplands (mountain summits) to the sea. This land division allowed the people who lived there a variety of terrains in which, they were able to farm, gather, and hunt. Before all of the bright lights, crowded beach walk, towering hotels, and variety of shops and restaurants, Waikīkī Beach “was once filled with agriculture and aquaculture, which was fed by the streams that flowed from three valleys that is located on Oʻahu: Makiki, Mānoa, and Palolo” (Productions). Waikīkī Beach also had many springs and streams that flowed from the mountains and valleys and was a drainage basin for the Koʻolau mountain range.
During the 1400s, Chief Kalamakua designed an irrigation system where all of the wetlands that existed were irrigated, which allowed for a system of agriculture based around wetland kalo (taro) and loko iʻa (fishponds), were essential in supporting a growing native Hawaiian population. Then in the 1450s Waikīkī was established as the governmental center of Oʻahu. Waikīkī was once the location for one of Hawaii’s historic battles where “In 1794, Kamehameha I arrived from the Big Island with a fleet of canoes. His army stormed Waikīkī Beach and then set out for Nuʻuanu to take on Oʻahu chief Kalanikupule and his men” (Guide). However, Kamehameha’s forces proved themselves to be more superior and the Oʻahu warriors were forced to retreat up the valley, where they were then pushed and driven off the steep Pali cliffs to their deaths.
Then on January 18, 1778, Oʻahu and the other Hawaiian Islands were first discovered by British explorer Captain James Cook who landed on Kauaʻi, which is Hawaiʻi’s fourth largest island. At this time during the 1800s, there was also a high increase of foreigners who settled in Waikiki, which included merchants, missionaries, soldiers, and later plantation and agricultural workers. However, throughout this time, Waikīkī remained a place of both productive agriculture for commoners and relaxation for the royal families. These families include: Kamehameha IV, Kamehameha V, Luanlilo, Kalākaua, Liliʻuokalani, and Princess Kaʻiulani (Guide).
Apart from this, in the 1830s foreign visitors began to visit Waikīkī and in the 1860s, a road was constructed, and a tramway and tramcars were introduced in the late 1880s. Throughout the late 1800s, the United States began to realize the strategic military importance of the Hawaiian Islands as the tourism business began to grow in the Waikīkī area. With the expansion of the tourism industry, the Moana Surfrider, the first luxury hotel was opened in 1901 to accommodate wealthy European guests. Unfortunately, in 1920, the Waikīkī area experienced a dramatic re-development, which brought in a new age of urbanization for those living in Waikīkī. Mosquitoes produced a health hazard for the wetland taro patches and was drained by the construction of the Ala Wai Canal, which was completed in 1928. At this time, “The lands were reclaimed and subdivided into 5000 square foot lots and the real estate development turned rural Waikīkī into a suburb” (Guide).
In the western end of Waikīkī, which is near Fort DeRussy Beach Park, the Hawaiian community was once known as Kalia. Throughout the 12th-14th centuries, there were many complex and productive fishponds that were linked by narrow footpaths. However, towards the ending of the 19th century, 20 acres of Kalia belonged to the chiefly Paoa family. To connect the Paoa family to a more well-known figure in Hawaiʻi, “The legendary surfer and swimmer, Duke Kahanamoku was a Paoa on his mother’s side, and grew up in an illustrious fishing and ocean faring family who lived on this land” (Life).
Waikīkī beach itself is “Narrow, composed of a thin layer of carbonate sand, several miles long, and fronted by a gently sloping fringing coral reef a few thousand feet wide” (Wiegel). As seen from photographs, the Waikīkī beaches are narrow. However, in Waikīkī the sand cover is thin and shallow where the limestone bedrock underneath the sand is only around two feet. In addition to the make-up of Waikīkī beach, there are hard bottom shoals (submerged ridge, bank, or bar that consists of, or is covered by, sand, or other unconsolidated material, and rises from the bed of a body of water to near the surface) located on the reef flat that are extremely important for surfing in Waikīkī.
Furthermore, the original sand on the beach and reef was created and transformed on the reef by biochemical, bio-erosion, and mechanical processes. The majority sand components in Waikīkī beach along with “Most other Oʻahu beaches is carbonate, with constituents in the order of abundance being: foraminifera, mollusks, red algae, echinoids, corals, and halimeda” (Wiegel). In addition to the development of Waikīkī Beach, there were dredged channels and basins in the reef. The channels, basins, and ponds have been dredged in the reef for multiple reasons. These reasons include: to obtain fill material, for navigation, for small craft harbors, and for swimming. Between Kewalo Basin and Diamond Head, there are around a dozen of these dredged reefs, which can clearly be seen from a birds-eye point of view.
In addition to the dredging throughout the channels and basins in the reef of Waikīkī Beach, but there was also a lot of construction in the Kalia area of Fort DeRussy, which took place between 1909-1911. Then in 1913, there was the placement of the first two artillery guns that had a large impact on the dredged reefs along the Kalia area. On November 12, 1908, engineers under the command of Major Eveleth Winslow had dredges come on site that blasted through the offshore reef that eventually dredged a channel to the shoreline. This allowed the deposition of the dredged bottom sand and coral. Then a suction dredge was used to acquire material for fill from the reef in front of the dredging location. Another source states that, “In preparation for the arrival of the 69-ton guns, a deep channel was dredged through the reef in front of Fort DeRussy so the cannon could be barged from Honolulu to as close to the battery as possible” (Thompson). Furthermore, after the artillery guns have finally arrived, the channel that was already dredged for sand was deepened and widened for the operation of the artillery guns into place.
After discussing and researching the history and the development of Waikīkī Beach, I have found a couple of traditional, Hawaiian moʻolelo stories that I believe are meaningful as a sense of place in the Waikiki Beach location. However, the story that stood out most to me is a moʻolelo that discusses the significance of the ahupuaʻa, which is titled, “The Battle of the Owls.” I really enjoyed this moʻolelo about the pueo because of how powerful our nature is and all the good that comes out of being kind and respecting our ʻaina as I believe what you put out into the world and the land is what comes back to you. This moʻolelo takes place not far from Pūowaina, which is now known as Punchbowl Crater, where a man named Kapoʻi lived a simple life as a farmer. However, one day during the rainy season when the fishing was poor, the man had no fish to eat, so he went to the Kewalo wetlands to search for bird eggs to eat. Eventually, Kapoʻi found a pueo (owl) nest that layed several eggs. Kapoʻi gathered all seven eggs and returned back to his home. While wrapping the eggs for cooking, Kapoʻi heard a great voice that called from above telling him to return the eggs. In response Kapoʻi said that he had no fish to eat and that the eggs were his dinner. The voice and Kapoʻi talked back and forth where Kapoʻi submitted and gave the eggs back.
The pueo never forgot Kapoʻi’s good deed and became a god of Kapoʻi. To honor his god, Kapoʻi built a heiau and dedicated it to the pueo. However, a few days later, Kākuhihewa, the highest chief of Oʻahu, who was living in Waikīkī heard about the heiau that Kapoʻi had built. Kākuhihewa became angry as it is considered an act of rebellion for a commoner to build a heiau and death was the penalty. The chief ordered his warriors to bring Kapoʻi to the heiau Kūpalaha in Waikīkī to be sacrificed. Kapoʻi was tied up and locked away, until he remembered his friend, the pueo. Kapoʻi called out in chant to the pueo for help, and his voice reached the heavens, and the pueo heard him. The pueo took the man’s plea to the king of the owls who lived in Mānoa Valley in the Waikīkī ahupuaʻa. Feeling bad for Kapoʻi, the owls agreed to help and called out to all the pueo of Hawaiʻi to help Kapoʻi.
The owl king’s command was passed on by using a pahu drum that was played so loudly that it was heard from Kauaʻi and the island of Hawaiʻi. The drum continued to play until all of the all the owls gathered on Oʻahu. At night, the owls praised the god Kāne and then at daybreak they took flight upon Waikīkī as Kākuhihewa prepared to sacrifice Kapoʻi. Then as dawn approached, there were so many owls that were flown ahead that they blocked out the sun and the day was as dark as night. Kākuhihewa’s warriors prepared to fight off the pueo, but the birds flew down and pecked at the noses and eyes of the warriors. The owls continued their attack until Kākuhihewa set Kapoʻi free. The battle was never forgotten as the people of Hawaiʻi named the spot where it occured; Kūkaeunahiopueo. Presently to this day, the pueo is worshipped as a god and as native Hawaiians’ ʻaumakua.
Overall, I have chosen to write about Waikīkī Beach, but there is a surf spot in Waikīkī that is very meaningful to me and that place is Canoes. Unfortunately, I was unable to locate a source that states when Canoes surf spot was given its name. Instead, I decided to translate what canoe means in Hawaiian, which translates to waʻa. With that being said, my connection with Canoes surf spot first started when I first learned how to surf with one of my best friends and where I first fell in love with how the waves roll in. Till this day we still go out to longboard together as I also paddle in that same surf spot for one of the best races during regatta season. I also looked up what the proper saying would be if you were to paddle a canoe, and it translates to hoe waʻa in Hawaiian. Every 4th of July in Waikīkī, is the Macfarlane regatta, which I think is the best race. None of the points that are brought in by crews are accounted for towards your crew qualifying for the state championships. On those days, the races are unpredictable, and it heavily depends on which lane your crew is in. Ideally, you want to be in the first two lanes that are towards the left side if you are looking from the beach out and never in the last few lanes because those are the closest to the sandbar, which has a strong possibility of your waʻa getting stuck. Although, I am not one hundred percent sure as this may be inaccurate, but I believe that Canoes surf spot got its name because of where the first waʻas started to paddle and catch waves.
Works Cited
“INSIDER'S GUIDE.” Waikiki.com, waikiki.com/insiders_guide/history_of_waikiki.html.
Productions, Gaye Chan - DownWind. Ahupua'a of Waikiki, DownWind Productions, 5 Feb. 2013, www.downwindproductions.com/tours/streams/streams.html#.
“The Hidden History of Waikiki (Part 1): From 'Spouting Water' to the Island's Breadbasket.” Hawaii Real Estate Market & Trends | Hawaii Life, 6 Feb. 2014, www.hawaiilife.com/blog/hidden-history-of-waikiki-part-1/.
Wiegel, Robert L. Waikiki Beach, Oahu, Hawaii: History of Its Transformation ...2008, dlnr.hawaii.gov/occl/files/2013/08/Wiegel-2008-ShoreAndBeach-Waikiki-history.pdf. Kamakau, Samuel M. 1991. Tales and Traditions of the People of Old: Na Moʻolelo a ka Poʻe Kahiko. Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press.
Seiden, Allan. 2001. Waikīkī. Waipahu, HI: Island Heritage Publishing
The lush swamplands of Waikiki were once abundant with crops and fresh water flowing from the top of the Mānoa Stream, to the bottom of Diamond Head. Waikiki, which means the spouting water in Hawaiian has always been a flourishing land that has fed the Hawaiian people for generations. Many Hawaiians of royal decent also enjoyed Waikiki and its ahupuaʻa on the South Shores of Oʻahu. We now know Waikiki as one of the most famous destinations in Hawaiʻi. Millions of people pour into Waikiki a year to experience the white sand beaches and hula dancers that have stereotyped Hawaiʻi, but how did Waikiki change so drastically? Waikiki began as flat land, but today we canʻt see past itʻs skyscrapers that fill the sky. Due to Militarism and modern interests, Waikiki was shaped into the place we know today. Though Waikiki may be a huge tourist destination now, we canʻt forget itʻs rich history and beginnings. Waikiki has been the playground of legends and continues to inspire people from around the world through itʻs beauties and endless charms.
It was mentioned in the 1400ʻs, that Chief Kalamakua designed an irrigation system managing the native resources of Waikiki, including taro patches and the building of fishponds in “Discover Hawaii”s article on the history of Waikiki beach. One day I stumbled across a Hawaiian music book called He Mele Aloha, after the lyrics of the song “Makee ʻAilana” a brief explanation states, “Kapiʻolani Park once included a waterway in which rested Makee Island, about where the zoo entrance is now. Accused by a footbridge, it was a favorite retreat for young lovers, as is suggested in this song by James ʻĪʻī. In the 1920s the Ala Wai Canal was constructed, draining the park along with the rest of Waikīkī, which had been taro and rice loʻi and duck ponds.” .
Waikiki has always been a special place to many. The famous battle of Nuʻuanu in 1794, started on the beaches of Waikiki when Kamehameha I and his army arrived from their home island, Big Island. From there, they stormed through the beach to Nuʻuanu where they succeeded in conquering Oʻahuʻs Chief Kalanikupule as they drove them all off the Pali cliffs.
The article “Waikīkī” describes that in the 1800ʻs, many Hawaiians of Royal decent would visit Waikiki to surf with their form of longboards. The article states, “Waikiki served as a vacation retreat for the kingdom's royalty. Kamehameha IV, Kamehameha V, Lunalilo, Kalakaua, Liliuokalani and Princess Kaiulani were among the dignitaries who maintained residences in the area, enjoying moonlight horseback rides, thrilling canoe races and carefree romps in the ocean.” In 1809 King Kamehameha even moved his royal court to the waterfront so we could see the foreign ships that now came through as a resting spot for such merchant ships who were either fisherman, whaling ships or trading furs.
From there on the popularity of Waikiki only grew larger, in the 1830s people werenʻt just stopping on the island between destinations, it began to be the destination. This lead to the 1860s first main road being built. After Hawaiʻis annexation in 1898 and later claim of territory in 1900, came Waikikis first hotel, which is known to be the Moana Hotel that opened in 1901. During this time the military efforts had realized Hawaiiʻs importance by building Pearl Harbor and bases in more central Oʻahu. In 1907, the government under the “Waikiki Reclamation Commission,” developed a plan to help the growth of tourism by draining the karo patches, duck ponds, rice paddies, and building bridges and widening streets instead. The wetlands that once field Waikiki all reverted to what we know today as the Ala Wai Canal. Military efforts now had a major presence in the island, more specifically Waikiki.
Waikiki was now facing a new era…of urbanization. Starting with the Moana Hotel, one after another hotel were being built while the need for them were going with the popularity of Waikiki. In 1920ʻs the entire landscape of Waikiki was changed. The Waikiki Natatorium War Memorial as well as the Honolulu Zoo both were huge tourist attractions to be developed at the time. The Waikiki Natatorium War Memorial was a 100 yard by 40 yard Olympic swimming pool that was filtered with the ocean water. Many Olympic metal winnings have swam in this pool which has also brought “fame to this architecture in Waikiki” says a website called “waikīkī.com” .
One of Waikikiʻs main claim to fameʻs is the known, “Father of Modern Surfing,” Duke Kahanamoku who was born and raised at the beaches of Waikiki. Born on August 24th, 1890 Duke his 5 brothers, 3 sisters and 31 additional cousins were raised surfing the waves of Waikiki while there dad was Honoluluʻs Police Captain. In a research paper I had written earlier on Duke Kahanamoku called “Legends Never Die” which explained how, “Duke Kahanamoku broke the world record in the 100-yard freestyle in his very first competition in 1911, which lead to his participation in the Olympics. In 1912, Duke had made it to the Olympics, winning his first gold metal in the 100 meter freestyle. In the four Olympic games that he represented the United States, Duke had also won a silver metal in 1912 in a relay, 2 more golds metals in 1920 and a sliver medal in the 1924 Olympics.” Having been raised in Waikiki and training in the Waikiki Natatorium War Memorial, Dukeʻs Olympic metals and surfing career brought attention and even more tourist and visitors to Waikiki. The sport of surfing only grew from that point forth and so did the fame of Waikiki. Soon the shores were filled with imported sand and even more tourist.
The image of the beach boys and hula dancers at Waikiki brought foreigners and military down to the shores as well. Soldiers headed down to in Waikiki before they got deployed, while visitors layered their sunblock and laid out trying to get tans. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel, back then known to be the “Pink Palace” filled up with tourists. Until the bombing of Pearl Harbor in 1941 that actually brought a pause to the tourism found in Waikiki, but during the late 1940ʻs attention was brought back to Waikiki through normal visitors like Shirley Temple, Babe Ruth, and even Elvis Presley who filmed several movies on Oʻahu and even specifically on Waikiki Beach. Now we have luxury shopping malls including the International Market Place where you can find stores like Kate Spade, Gucci, and other high in boutiques. World- class hotels like the Hilton, Sheraton and the Hyatt also fill the coastline for the pleasure of tourists.
Waikiki has gone through all this change and yet the areas rich history lives on. Many moʻolelo or Hawaiian stories remain today that leaves evidence to Hawaiʻiʻs prehistoric times. It could even be as simple as asking a local of Waikiki or Oʻahu in order to gain more knowledge and understanding of the ahupuaʻa. One moʻolelo of Waikiki is called “Kapoʻi and the Owl God” was retold in an article posted by Kapiolani Community College. The story begins with a man named Kapoʻi who lives in Kahehuna, Honolulu. One day we traveled to Kewaloʻs in search of some thatching for his house when he stumbled across owl eggs. So he took all 7 eggs and brought it home to cook. As he prepared the eggs with ti leaves and warmed the ashes for the fire, a owl perched on his fence. The story further explains that the owl, "called out to him, E Kapo'i, give me back my eggs!”,“Kapo'i asked the owl, "How many eggs did you have?""Seven eggs," replied the owl. ”Well, I plan to roast all seven for my supper. "The owl asked again for its eggs, and Kapo'i again refused. Then the owl said, "E Kapo'i, you're heartless! Why don't you take pity on me? Give me back my eggs.” Kapo'i felt pity for the owl and told her to take the eggs.” In return the owl instructed him to build a heiau in Manoa and to call it Manua, so he did such. He set kapu, wehewehe.org defines it as “taboo, prohibition; special privilege or exemption from ordinary taboo” and eventually made a sacrifice at the alter. The king of Oʻahu at the time, Kakuhihewa, was living in Waikiki and got news of what Kapoʻi had done. Prior he had declared heʻd kill anyone who dedicated and erected a heiau before he finished his own temple. He seized Kapoʻi and took him to the heiau Kupalaha in Waikiki where him too would be sacrificed. That same day the owl gathered all the owls from Niʻihau to Hawaiʻi (Big Island) at Pueohulunui. The day of Kane, Kakuhihewa summoned to put Kapoʻi to death, the owls filled the skies of Honolulu. A battle broke out between Kakuhihewaʻs people and the owls, eventually the owls won and the released Kapoʻi. The story later explains, “The King acknowledged that Kapo'i's akua (god) was a powerful one and from that time on, the owl has been recognized as one of the many deities of the Hawaiian people.” This is also know as an ʻaumakua. My family ʻaumakua is the white pueo, which I thought was interesting since Waikiki is my favorite surf spot on Oʻahu.
Besides it now being the concrete jungle of Oʻahu, Waikiki has many great attributes we can still enjoy today. In my eight years of living in Honolulu, Hawaii and being born and raised on Kauaʻi, Waikiki holds a special place in my heart. From being a grom to many Halloweens walking the famous strip of Waikiki. It is a place where some people experience catching their first waves or even their only waves. I enjoy paddling out and catching some waves because itʻs usually a nice and smooth ride in. Many people celebrate their special occasions in Waikiki to, either getting wasted on a sunset booze cruise or clubbing unit they drop. Another personal favorite of mines is staying in the amazing hotels of Waikiki because of course, itʻs amazing views. Whether it be staying at the hotels or sneaking into the pools, itʻs always a fun time in Waikiki. If you take the time to learn a little more about the place you will realize how special it truly is.
The rich history of Waikiki will always be remembered. Though it has turned into what we call the suburbs here in Hawaiʻi, Beach Boys still rome the shores while tutuʻs dance hula. The spirit can still be felt, though it may not look the same in Waikiki. Starting from the high mountains of Manoa and Palolo, the ʻāina, translated in English as land, was abundant and rich full of ponds, loʻis and a flowing ecosystem. This very fact could be the reason why Waikiki is now completely filled in as everyone had to have a piece of the hidden gem. Itʻs history will always remain, dating back from before the arrival of Captain Cook in 1778 to a time where only Native Hawaiians lived in Hawaiʻi. Not long after itʻs discovery came the discovery by the military. Being an amazing place full of resources, thereʻs no question to why Waikiki caught the eyes of many. Through itʻs ancient legends, to the legends like Duke Kahanamoku, Waikiki is a place that will always be remembered.
Citations:
Breen, Anuhea. “Legends Never Die”. Feb, 7, 2019.
Discover Hawaii. “Exploring the History of Waikiki Beach - Oahu.” Discover Hawaii, Discover Hawaii, 7 June 2017, www.discover-hawaii.com/oahu/articles/ exploring-the-history-of-waikiki-beach_637/.
“INSIDER'S GUIDE.” Waikiki.com, waikiki.com/insiders_guide.html.
Kapo'i and the Owl God: Kona: Stories of an Ancient Island: Traditions of O'ahu: Asia-Pacific Digital Library, apdl.kcc.hawaii.edu/oahu/stories/kona/kapoi.htm.
Wilcox, Carol. He Mele Aloha: A Hawaiian Songbook